Camino Day 16: Halfway to Santiago!

Updates from walking the Camino de Santiago

Jul 11, 2025

“You look so scared.”

“I am scared!” I shot back with a small laugh.

I was having a late breakfast with another pilgrim outside a café in Carrión de los Condes. She was done for the day, waiting for her albergue to open. I wasn’t even halfway to mine.

Sure I had three liters of water and plenty of snacks, but ahead was 17 km of empty Meseta trail. No fountains, no cafés, nothing but sun and fields. And with albergues in the next town already booked, I’d have to push another 7 km after that. It was going to be my longest day yet.

In case you missed it: I’m currently walking the Camino de Santiago, an 800 km (500-mile) pilgrimage from St. Jean-Pied-De-Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. I’ll be sharing updates from the trail, covering everything from the joyful to the painful, the random to the meaningful. As someone who cares deeply about holistic health, loves being outside, and can overthink a pair of socks, I’ll be paying close attention to the food, the physical challenge, and the inner shifts that come with walking across a country.

Day 14-16

Kilometers Walked

Day 14: 28.7 km, from Castrojeríz to Población de Campos

Day 15: 38.4 km, from Población de Campos to Ledigos

Day 16: 26.3 km, from Ledigos to Bercianos del Real Camino

Total so far: 417.3 km (259.3 miles), from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Bercianos del Real Camino

Favorite Fuel

The nectarines and peaches here have been so good. They’re in season right now, and I’ve been grabbing them from whatever grocery store I find. Sweet, juicy, and the best thing in this heat. Also a good way to stay a little more hydrated.

State of My Pack

Since hitting the Meseta, I have been carrying a lot more water. Water is HEAVY! A liter of water is 2.2 pounds! When I walked the 17 km from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza, I had over 6 pounds of water. I am glad I brought all the water because I felt safer and reassured, but it added a lot to my pack. Before the Meseta? I’d usually just carry half a liter to a liter and top up in the next town. But out here, those towns are really spread out.

The early mornings in the Meseta have been the coldest of the whole walk so far, so I’m extra glad I packed my Patagonia jacket. It’s been essential out on the Meseta.

Pain in My Butt

I’m feeling strong! I was worried my glute or ankle might bother me after that long day, but so far, so good. I’ve been trying to be very disciplined: taking my pack off and sitting down for at least five minutes every 60 to 90 minutes.

And I’ve stopped keeping up with anyone. If a new friend has a faster stride, I just wave them ahead and stick to my pace.

Thoughts from the Trail

Spoiler: I made it!

In fact, I’m still trying to understand what exactly I was so afraid of before that long, empty 17 km stretch. Was it the idea of being without the usual resources? Or the comfort of having something to worry about?

Being cautious had its place. It helped me plan carefully, pack enough water and snacks. But beyond that, the worry wasn’t very helpful. As I walked, it became clear those fears weren’t necessary. At the halfway point, there was even a food truck by the trail. Cyclists passed now and then with a cheerful “Buen Camino,” and after a couple of hours I spotted another pilgrim walking in the distance. The path itself was quiet.

I’ve been thinking a lot about how it felt in my body to walk away from that last water fountain for hours. I felt tense—my heart pounding, my mind racing. The worry was noise, heavier than the water I carried. So I started looking for colors in the landscape, doing that “see, feel, smell” exercise. After a while, I actually forgot about the nerves completely and was just present. I could enjoy the walk. I felt at peace.

Wisdom Along The Way

Look out for yourself. Sometimes you have to be honest and tell someone you’d rather walk alone. — a fellow pilgrim
You’re not really walking this alone. Remember that so many people are carrying you along in spirit. — a fellow pilgrim
Listen to your body. Just because one part says go doesn’t mean the rest is ready. — a fellow pilgrim
Don’t pack your fears. — from a guidebook