Camino Day 20: Past the Meseta
Updates from walking the Camino de Santiago
I hadn’t planned to walk 19 km in my sandals. But that morning leaving the albergue (pilgrim’s hostel), I barely made it 100 meters before ripping off my trail runners and stuffing them in my bag. My Tevas were comfortable enough, but they weren’t going to survive the next few hundred kilometers. And I wasn’t sure when I would see a hiking store again.
So later that day when I got to León, I went shoe shopping.
In case you missed it: I’m currently walking the Camino de Santiago, an 800 km (500-mile) pilgrimage from St. Jean-Pied-De-Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. I’ll be sharing updates from the trail, covering everything from the joyful to the painful, the random to the meaningful. As someone who cares deeply about holistic health, loves being outside, and can overthink a pair of socks, I’ll be paying close attention to the food, the physical challenge, and the inner shifts that come with walking across a country.
Day 17-20
Kilometers Walked
Day 17: 26.8 km, from Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas
Day 18: 26.4 km, from Mansilla de las Mulas to La Virgen del Camino
Day 19: 30.9 km, from La Virgen del Camino to Villares de Órbigo
Day 20: 34.7 km, from Villares de Órbigo to Rabanal del Camino
Total so far: 542.8 km (337.3 miles), from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Rabanal del Camino
Favorite Fuel
One of my favorite Camino snacks is what I call a Cowboy Salad. It’s super easy. I just grab a bag of greens and a container of guacamole or hummus from the supermarket. Then I dump it right into the bag, roll the top, and give it a good shake. The only thing you need is your spork.
It’s perfect for days without a kitchen at the albergue. You can also customize it depending on what you find. Add tinned fish or a boiled egg, try different kinds of greens, or (if you’re up for it) use your pocket knife to chop in a tomato, a block of tofu or some fruit. Fresh and convenient, it’s an easy way to get more veggies during the walk.
State of My Pack
I’ve been carrying more snacks again—something I keep going back and forth on. It’s convenient to have a few days’ worth (including a whole jar of peanut butter), but my pack is definitely heavier. My shoulders aren’t thrilled. I’m already thinking about lightening the snack load again.
Also couldn’t resist picking up a half-liter water bottle in León: a yellow Nalgene. It’s my new favorite… I have a real weakness for water bottles.
Pain in My Butt
It was long overdue to replace my original trail runners. They’d been giving me trouble from the start. Trail runners, for those unfamiliar, are basically sturdier running shoes designed for uneven terrain.
My pair was from Nike, picked up at a Dick’s Sporting Goods before I left for Europe. By the morning of Day 3 on the Camino, I noticed a hole on the left side of the right shoe. I was both disappointed and confused—there hadn’t even been a moment where I remembered it tearing. I tried sewing it up, but of course the hole opened right back up (no fault of my sewing skills).
The shoes held on for a while, but by the second week the soles were wearing down fast. I even bought inserts at a pharmacy to stretch them a bit longer. I was desperate to avoid switching shoes because I didn’t want to risk blisters. But eventually, I had to accept it was time for something better.
In León, I tried on two pairs of Hokas and a pair of Atlas. The moment I put on the Atlas, I knew they were the ones. They had a wide toe box and a low drop—so comfortable that just walking around the store, I nearly teared up. I’m not even kidding.
The guy running the store was incredibly kind. He took the time to explain what to look for in trail runners, showed me how to lace them for better ankle support, and how to keep my feet from sliding on descents. I ended up staying there for quite a while and picked up a few other essentials.
We got talking, and I mentioned I’m from Massachusetts. Turns out he used to live in Worcester! It was such a fun, unexpected connection that made the whole experience even more memorable.
Thoughts from the Trail
It feels bittersweet to be so close to Santiago. Part of me is excited to finish, but I’ll miss the daily rhythm of walking, resting, and sharing small moments with other pilgrims.
I’m wondering what it will feel like to stop. To not wake up each morning and just start walking.
My body is definitely tired, but I feel stronger than when I started.
I’ve been thinking about what I want to carry home from the Camino. Being present. The patience. The way simple things feel like enough.
Do I keep going to Finisterre and Muxía? Or take a few days in Santiago to join the Saint James Feast Day celebrations? Decisions for the next stretch.
Which Camino will I do next?
Wisdom Along The Way
Fear vs. Discomfort (from a fellow pilgrim)
We talked about walking before sunrise with just a headlamp. The world feels “smaller” then. You can only see the narrow beam of light on the path ahead. I admitted it feels scary to me. But he challenged me to think about it: is it fear or discomfort?
He put it like this: fear is your mind warning you about real danger, telling you what you’re doing isn’t safe. Discomfort is just unease—it’s unfamiliar or unsettling, but not actually unsafe. Out there with a headlamp, I could see the trail in front of me. It was a known, marked Camino path. No real threat, just the uneasy feeling of darkness and shapes and sounds in the woods. It was a helpful distinction for me: fear might mean stop because it’s unsafe, while discomfort asks if I can keep going even when it feels unsettling.
Photos!
I’m almost to Santiago de Compostela. I’m definitely feeling the miles (and sleeping in big bunk rooms doesn’t exactly promise a full eight hours). Still, I’m glad to be out here walking. Tired, but grateful. Thanks for coming along.
Until next time,
Rebecca Grace
Thanks for taking us along your journey with you! Love the photos and reading how you keep yourself healthy, inspired and fit for this continued journey. Yes, You Got this Girl!
Gail from Boston, MA
I am enjoying your musings from the trail! You got this Girl!
Your friend from the Oaxaca plane…
Anne Parrish, San Antonio/Asheville